
but anyone who thinks the Big Dig is all there is to life in this jewel of a country is seriously missing out. Though it’s barely the size of South Carolina, Panama offers miles of coastline along two oceans, forest-draped highlands, spectacular islands and the dense and mysterious Darien Gap. Divers have a wealth of options, and often head for the healthy coral reefs that line the Atlantic coast. The Pacific coast, on the other hand, offers many opportunities for big animal encounters, especially in the waters around Coiba and the Pearl Islands (the archipelago now well known for its starring role on Survivor).
Due to its privileged geographic location at the crossroads of two continents and two oceans, Panama has extraordinary biodiversity, both under water and above. Since the isthmus is just 50 miles across at its narrowest point, divers have the unique opportunity of diving both the Pacific and the Atlantic in a single trip; ambitious divers can hit both bodies of water in a single day. One of the highlights of Pacific coast diving is Coiba, a former penal colony that, at 200 square miles, is Panama’s largest island. The best diving here is around a series of rocky pinnacles, some of which break the surface while others come to only within 100 feet of it. Because different Pacific currents converge near Coiba, marine life ranges from jacks, snappers and turtles–all fairly sure things–to less reliable but more heart-pounding sightings: humpback whales, hammerhead sharks, and, in winter months, the occasional whale shark.
